Knuckles – A Quai-German Menu at Tzi Char Prices

After the rather disastrous revamp of its hawker centre, which left the area with a ridiculous amount of chicken rice stalls, I’m glad to see that Kovan is experiencing a food revival. My family has been staying in Kovan for nearly 25 years, and the recent explosion of bistros and eateries has piqued my interest.

Kovan was once anchored by traditional hawker favourites such as rojak, carrot cake , meatball noodles, roasted meats and tzi char. But the growing affluence of well-traveled Kovaners has seen more varied bistros sprout in the area. They all have one thing in common; non-Chinese cuisine at tzi char-like pricing. Thai bistro, Nakhon, is the definitive example that this formula can be a commercial success. The exceptionally long queues Nakhon has attracted other bistros to the area.

So I decided to go home and return a little bit later. I returned at 7.30pm and ordered a plate of pork knuckles ($8) and a 0.5 litre glass of Kronenbourg 1664 draught beer ($8).

Knuckles has a pretty interesting menu.

Appetizers
Truffle salad with grilled chicken $6
Truffle fries $5
Crispy wings $5
Fried sotong balls $3
Grilled mushroom $3

Main courses ($8  each)
German pork knuckle
Grilled chicken chop
Pork schnitzel
All day breakfast
Aglio olio with mushroom and chicken
Truffle mushroom spaghetti
Bangers and mash

Bottled beer
1 for $5, 5 for $20
Tiger & Tiger Crystal
Heineken
Carlsberg
Bitburger

1 for $8
Kilkenny
Erdinger
Surger
Benediktiner

1 for $10
Bulmers

Draught
Blanc
0.25l $5
0.5l $8

Drinks
Hot $2, Cold $3
Latte
Cappuccino
Coffee
Chocolate
Lemon tea
Tea

When I placed my order, only two of the eleven tables were occupied (not including mine). There was only one server,  previously from the nearby Nakhon, who was capably waiting on the three tables. But after he served me, the crowd began to trickle in, and within the hour, nine of the eleven tables were occupied. This was clearly too much for him to handle.

While I was eating, I notice one of the other Nakhon servers coming into Knuckles to help out a little bit. It makes me wonder if both bistros are owned by the same person. Whatever the case, as more patrons entered the bistro, the service quickly became inadequate.

The pork knuckle was served with a side of mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. It was a decent portion that is slightly inadequate for a hungry Dedrick, but for most people, it should suffice. The pork knuckle could have been saltier. After all, there is nothing better than feasting on a hearty serving of crispy, pork knuckle with the natural saltiness of its skin being washed away by an ice-cold beer.

Knuckles plays modern English pop music. It is a little bit loud, but you should still be able to maintain a conversation if you are willing to raise your voice slightly. The interior is serviced by air-conditioning and ceiling fans, but the open nature of the bistro prevents it from getting too cold.

The interior also features a stripped-down, industrial motif that gives the bistro a subtle personality without becoming an overbearing caricature of the cuisine it represents *cough*Nakhon*cough* (BTW, the only thing Nakhon needs to complete its unapologetically Thai-experience is periodic meet-the-people sessions hosted by Thaksin Shinawatra flanked by transvestite sex workers).

Those looking to escape the music and air-conditioning can also dine alfresco.

In contrast to Nakhon, Knuckles is less-focused on the German experience that was become synonymous with pork knuckles. The menu features distinctively non-German food like bangers and mash, chicken chop, spaghetti and fried sotong balls.

It’s better to think of Knuckles as a Western food bistro that was mildly-inspired by German cuisine, as opposed to a specialist in German food and beer. That being said, they offer a respectable variety of international beer for a neighbourhood bistro – just don’t expect a wide gamut of offerings by German breweries.

Let’s get down to brass tacks – would I return to Knuckles and would I recommend it? The answer to both questions is an unequivocal “Yes”. It’s a charming little bistro that offers good value for a reasonable price. But those looking for an extensive, and authentic menu of German food and beer will want to look elsewhere.

Knuckles Bistro is located at Blk 212 Hougang Street 21 #01-33 Hougang Kovan District. They are open for dinner from 7.00pm onwards.